Rohini Gaonkar

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Newfoundland - Icebergs, Fjords and Earth’s Mantle

Welcome to our travel blog! Join us on an exciting adventure as we explore the breathtaking landscapes and natural wonders of the amazing Newfoundland.

Newfoundland and Labrador is the most easterly province of Canada. The Strait of Belle Isle separates the province into two geographical parts: Labrador, connected to mainland Canada, and Newfoundland, an island in the Atlantic Ocean. The province also includes over 7,000 tiny islands. [wiki]

We planned a short 5 days trip to Newfoundland during Canada Day 2023 long weekend, in which we explored scenic boat tours to geological marvels in Deer Lake and Twillingate. We will plan a trip again in future to explore the more famous and buzzing St. Johns and Bonavista areas on the island.

This itinerary promises an unforgettable experience. Let's dive in!

Day 1: Arrival in Deer Lake

After a pleasant flight from Hamilton, we arrived in Deer Lake, Newfoundland. The serene surroundings and warm hospitality instantly made us feel at home. We checked into our cozy AirBnb accommodation, ready to embark on a memorable journey.

Cozy and well decorated AirBnb accommodation

Day 2: Gros Morne National park

We set off early in the morning to Gros Morne National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, because "The park provides a rare example of the process of continental drift, where deep ocean crust and the rocks of the earth's mantle lie exposed."

The day began with an exhilarating boat tour on Western Brook Pond. The stunning fjords, majestic cliffs, and cascading waterfalls left us in awe of Mother Nature's wonders.

Western Brook Pond Boat Tours

Upon arrival at the park, purchase a separate National Park pass if you haven't already obtained one. This pass grants access to various sites and trails within the park, including the boat tour of Western Brook Pond. Note that boat tour tickets should be purchased separately from the National Park pass.

From the parking lot, embark on a 2.6-kilometer hike/walk to reach the boat tour of Western Brook Pond. The trail offers scenic views and sets the stage for the boat tour.

After the boat tour, we hiked along the Gros Morne Coastal Trail. The picturesque trail offered breathtaking views of the rugged coastline and the vast Atlantic Ocean. It was a feast for the eyes.

Note: Google Maps for the Coastal trail is only for camping. If you are interested in just walking on the trail then go to Baker's Brook Bridge Parking.

If you have more time, do explore other places or treat yourself to Moose dishes in the Rocky Harbor. There are lots of trails and scenic points, I would suggest do your research and go to the ones you find interesting.

Day 3: Green Point, Tablelands, and Discovery Centre, Drive to Grand Falls-Windsor

Next day our adventure started at the Green Point Geological Site. As we explored the area, we marveled at the fascinating geology, you can learn about the fascinating geology of the area and maybe spot some fossils. We did not complete the trail because we want to save time for Tablelands, a little regret, so would suggest you to time it well.

Green Point trail

Next, we visited the Tablelands, a geological wonder with its exposed mantle rock. The otherworldly landscape transported us to a different realm. The panoramic views were simply breathtaking.

Exceptional geology from beneath the Earth’s crust. Pushed to the surface by colliding continents millions of years ago, it creates an unexpected environment of unusual plants and striking vistas. It was surreal to walk upon the Earth’s mantle - normally found far below the earth's crust. This walk reveals some of the earth shaking ideas that changed how we understand our planet. Peridotite, which makes up the Tablelands, lacks some of the usual nutrients required to sustain most plant life and has a toxic quality, hence its barren appearance

Serpentinized peridotite rocks originate from peridotite. What sets them apart is the process of serpentinization, where peridotite reacts with water, undergoing chemical changes.

The mineral composition of serpentinized peridotite rocks influences the plant and animal species that thrive in the area. The Tablelands, host rare plant species like Purple Pitcher Plant and Alpine Azalea, adapted to the challenging conditions of this distinctive geological environment.

Before driving to Grand Falls-Windsor, we made a special stop at the Discovery Centre in Woody Point. The center provided a deeper understanding of the geological significance of the area. The exhibits and information enriched our overall experience, making us appreciate the landscape even more.

On hindsight, personally, I would prioritize a visit to the Discovery Centre in Woody Point as early as possible, even before Gros Morne. Here, you can delve into the geological significance and understand the importance of the landscape from a geological point of view. The exhibits and information provided will enhance your overall experience of the area.

We checked in to our second AirBnb accommodation at Grand-Falls Windsor.

Day 4: Day Trip to Twillingate for Icebergs Boat Ride

We embarked on an exciting day trip to Twillingate. The town is known for its stunning coastal scenery and abundant wildlife. We couldn't wait to set sail on a boat tour to witness icebergs, whales, and seabirds up close. We booked online tickets with Iceberg Quest Ocean Tours.

However, we could only spot Icebergs during this time. The whale season had just started and many claimed to have seen them at St. John’s.

The tour operators took us around many icebergs in the area, we also saw some collapse in front of us! We were also lucky to have a piece of the glacial ice!

After the boat ride, we explored the charming town of Twillingate. The picturesque streets and friendly locals added to its allure. A visit to the iconic Long Point Lighthouse was a must, and the views from the top were simply spectacular. You could see the icebergs from atop the hill.

Day 5: Optional Explorations and Departure

On our last day in Newfoundland, we had the freedom to explore Gros Morne again and/or optional attractions in Grand Falls-Windsor. However, rain gods were not kind and it was pouring a lot on the island. We decided to take small stops, eat food and relax before our journey back home.

My tips :

  • There are 4 airports on the island (St. John’s (YYT), Gander (YQX), Deer Lake (YDF), and St. Anthony (YAY) and an option to take a ferry. We chose to fly into Deer Lake, instead of the famous St. John, because with the limited time we had we wanted to see the Gros Morne National Park and Icebergs. Drive from Deer Lake to St. John would have taken a day and we didn’t have that much time to spend. So, plan your trip based on your priorities.

  • Go to discovery center before you start exploring the landscape, it gives you lot of insights into the geological importance of the island.

  • Icebergs are best viewed in late May and early June along the coast of Newfoundland, and between March and July along the coast of Labrador. Bergs are actually most plentiful in April and May but are often trapped in sea ice that prevents tour boats from operating. More iceberg viewing tips.

  • The best time to go whale watching in Newfoundland are from mid-May to September, with the peak season being from mid-July to mid-August.

  • Icebergs vs Whales is either or. If you want to see Icebergs, then goto North and for Whales goto South. When we were on the island, the whale season had started in south like St. Johnns/Bonavista, but the Icebergs had melted there. We got to see Icebergs in Twillingate, and we heard a big one had washed up near Conche. Whales were no where to be seen. We will come back in future, to see these majestic beauties.

  • Weather on the island can switch within minutes from sunny to rainy to chilly, so make sure to pack accordingly. Water proof clothes, bags and hiking shoes! Pack an extra pair if you can!

  • Carry bug spray and bug bite ointment! We had bites even before we hit the trails.

  • Follow facebook groups for activities you are interested, they give lots of insights in to the spottings.

  • Mobile network and Internet is very very spotty across the island. Download offline maps!

  • Vegetarians might have difficult time finding food, however, you can request small customizations to the restaurants.

  • There are flights from Toronto to Deer Lake too. We took flight from Hamilton, to explore a new airport. While the small Hamilton airport meant faster checkin and security, it also added lot of travel time for us. We took Go bus from Union station to Hamilton Go, and then a 20mins cab ride to the airport. Buses are at 1hr interval. While returning we missed the 9pm bus, so we caught the bus till Square one, Mississauga and a cab ride home. So, do check out flights as per your convenience.

Adding few suggestions to add to your itinerary :

  • Consider visiting the Salmonid Interpretation Centre in Grand Falls-Windsor. Watch wild Atlantic salmon jump and swim through the fishway passage system on the Grand Falls at one of the largest Atlantic salmon enhancement projects in North America. We skipped it as there we no paved roads after a certain point and the rains had made it very mushy. We didn’t want to take risk!

  • Or the Mary March Provincial Museum to delve into the local history and culture.

  • Alternatively, soak in the natural beauty surrounding Grand Falls-Windsor. Take leisurely walks, enjoying the scenic views and peaceful ambiance.

As our journey came to an end, we couldn't help but feel grateful for the mesmerizing landscapes, warm hospitality, and unforgettable adventures that Newfoundland had to offer. It's a place that truly captivates the soul.

Until next time, happy travels!

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